Duck Breast with Ice Cider Sauce and Roasted Jerusalem Artichokes

Taste

Ice cider was invented in Quebec: apples or their juice are concentrated by the winter cold, then fermented slowly into a sweet, sharp dessert drink. A small pour from Domaine Labranche, boiled down with shallots, thyme and duck broth from Canards des Monts, makes a glossy sauce that does what orange or cherry traditionally do for duck, cutting the richness with fruit and acidity. The duck is Muscovy breast, also from Canards des Monts, which is leaner and meatier than the more common Pekin duck, with a thinner layer of fat under the skin. That fat renders out in the pan and then roasts the vegetables: Jerusalem artichokes, which turn creamy inside with a nutty, artichoke-like sweetness, and Brussels sprouts, charred at the edges.

Plan ahead: The duck breasts are sold frozen. Thaw them in the fridge overnight.

Instructions

1. Prepare the duck. Heat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F). Pat the thawed duck breasts very dry with paper towels. With a sharp knife, score the skin in a crosshatch pattern about 1 cm (½ inch) apart, cutting through the skin and fat but not into the meat. Season both sides well with salt and pepper and leave them on a plate while you start the vegetables.

2. Start the Jerusalem artichokes. Once the oven is fully heated, toss the Jerusalem artichokes on a large rimmed baking sheet with the oil, 4 of the thyme sprigs, and a good pinch of salt and pepper. Spread them out, cut sides down, and roast for 15 minutes. ⏱︎ 15 min

3. Render the duck skin. Meanwhile, lay the duck breasts skin side down in a large cold frying pan, then set it over medium heat. Starting cold lets the fat melt out slowly so the skin crisps without the meat overcooking. Cook without moving them until the skin is deep golden and crisp, 10–12 minutes. Twice during cooking, tilt the pan and spoon the rendered fat into a heatproof bowl. ⏱︎ 12 min

4. Add the Brussels sprouts. In a bowl, toss the Brussels sprouts with 2 tablespoons of the rendered duck fat and a pinch of salt. Take the baking sheet out of the oven, stir the Jerusalem artichokes, and scatter the sprouts among them, cut sides down. Roast until the artichokes are tender all the way through and the sprouts are browned at the edges, 20 minutes more. ⏱︎ 20 min

5. Finish and rest the duck. Turn the breasts over and cook on the flesh side until an instant-read thermometer in the thickest part reads 54 °C (130 °F) for medium-rare, 3–4 minutes. Move them skin side up to a cutting board and let them rest 10 minutes. They’ll rise a few degrees as they rest. ⏱︎ 4 min

6. Make the ice cider sauce. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the pan and set it over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring, until soft, about 2 minutes. Pour in the ice cider and let it bubble, scraping up the browned bits, until reduced by half, 2–3 minutes. Add the broth and the remaining 2 thyme sprigs and boil until reduced to about 125 ml (½ cup) and slightly syrupy, 6–8 minutes. Take the pan off the heat, discard the thyme, and whisk in the cider vinegar and the cold butter a few cubes at a time until the sauce is glossy. Stir in any juices from the resting duck and season with salt and pepper. ⏱︎ 2 min

7. Slice and serve. Slice the duck about 1 cm (½ inch) thick, across the grain. Divide the vegetables between plates, lay the duck slices alongside, and spoon the sauce over the duck.

Tips

• Doneness: Duck breast is traditionally served pink in Quebec and France. Health Canada recommends cooking all poultry to 74 °C (165 °F). If you prefer that, cook the breasts on the flesh side for a few minutes longer, then finish them in the oven with the vegetables until they reach that temperature. The meat will be firmer and grey-brown throughout.
• Save the duck fat: Strain any leftover fat into a jar and refrigerate it for up to a month. It’s excellent for roasting potatoes.
• The rest of the bottle: Ice cider is meant to be sipped cold with dessert or a cheese course. Once opened, the bottle keeps for a couple of weeks in the fridge.
• No ice cider? Use 125 ml (½ cup) of hard cider or unfiltered apple juice with 1 tablespoon of maple syrup instead, and taste before adding the vinegar, since it may not need it.
• Jerusalem artichokes: There’s no need to peel them; a good scrub with a brush is enough. They’re rich in inulin, a fibre that some people find hard to digest, so serve modest portions to anyone trying them for the first time.