Cider-Steamed Mussels with Leeks, Fennel & Smoked Lardons

Taste

In Normandy, mussels are often steamed in the local cider rather than white wine, and the broth is finished with crème fraîche. This version uses Turbo Brut, a dry cider from Cidrerie Chemin des Sept in Montérégie, poured over leeks and fennel from Ferme aux pleines saveurs that have been softened in butter and the fat from smoked lardons. The cider brings sharp apple and the fennel a faint aniseed sweetness, while the lardons add salt and smoke. When the mussels open, their juices run into the pot, so the broth ends up briny, slightly creamy, and the reason for buying the baguette. Lufa’s 5 lb bag of organic Prince Edward Island mussels feeds four as a main course.

Instructions

1. Clean the mussels. Tip the mussels into a colander and rinse them under cold running water. Pull off any stringy beards by tugging them firmly towards the hinge of the shell. Tap any open mussels sharply on the counter and throw away any that don’t close, along with any with cracked or broken shells.

2. Crisp the lardons. Put the lardons in a large, heavy pot with a tight-fitting lid, at least 5 litres, and set it over medium heat. Cook, stirring now and then, until the fat has run out and the lardons are golden and crisp, 6–8 minutes. Lift them out with a slotted spoon onto a plate lined with paper towel. Leave about 1 tablespoon of fat in the pot and pour off the rest. ⏱︎ 8 min

3. Soften the leeks and fennel. Add the butter, leeks, and sliced fennel to the pot. Cook, stirring often, until soft and sweet but not browned, about 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic until you can smell it, about a minute. ⏱︎ 8 min

4. Add the cider. Pour in the cider, turn the heat to high, and bring it to a rolling boil. Let it bubble for 2 minutes to cook off the raw taste of the alcohol. ⏱︎ 2 min

5. Steam the mussels. Tip in the mussels and cover the pot tightly. Steam, shaking the pot hard once or twice with the lid held on, until almost all of the shells have opened, 5–6 minutes. ⏱︎ 6 min

6. Finish the broth. With a slotted spoon, lift the mussels into four warm, wide bowls, and throw away any that stayed shut. Whisk the crème fraîche into the broth and let it simmer for 1 minute. Taste and add pepper. It shouldn’t need salt: the lardons and the mussels’ juices bring plenty. Stir in the parsley and the lardons. ⏱︎ 1 min

7. Serve. Ladle the broth over the mussels and scatter with the reserved fennel fronds, roughly chopped. Serve straight away with torn baguette for the broth, and an empty bowl on the table for the shells.

Tips

• Storing mussels: Keep them in the fridge in their open bag, or in a bowl covered with a damp tea towel, and cook them within a day of delivery. Don’t store them in water or a sealed container: both suffocate them.
• Choosing a cider: A dry (brut) cider keeps the broth savoury. A sweet cider makes it cloying; if that’s all you have, add a squeeze of lemon at the end. Dry white wine works too.
• Without pork: Leave out the lardons, soften the leeks and fennel in 3 tablespoons of butter, and season the broth with a pinch of salt.
• Make it a bigger meal: Serve with fries for moules-frites, or toss the mussels and broth through 350 g of buttered linguine.
• Leftovers: Pick the meat out of any leftover mussels and refrigerate it in the broth within 2 hours. Eat it the next day, stirred into hot pasta.